When I first saw this gorgeous Renaissance cross pendant in the online collection of the Louvre in Paris discovered it was something like "love at first click". The original pendant from Spain in the shape of a Greek cross from the early 16th century immediately caught my eye because of its - in my opinion - particularly balanced proportions and the filigree enamel as well as the delicate pearl pendants and the beautiful faceted rock crystals. I really wanted to be inspired by it to create my own version of such a Renaissance pendant.
No sooner said than done: I immediately got to work. The first thing I had to do was make the base of the four arms of the cross. Each one consists of a rectangular prong setting for the rock crystals and the "shields" attached to it, whose milled ornaments would later accommodate the filigree enamel.
Now the ornaments for the enamel planned there were milled out individually by hand. If you consider the overall size of the cross pendant, you can certainly understand that only the tiniest ball cutters were needed for this. from my workshop were allowed to be used. Some of these cutters are only a few tenths of a millimeter in size - and yet they have many small cutting edges around the cutter head. These tiny and extra hardened "blades" are barely visible even with a magnifying glass. I am always in awe of what today's technology is capable of producing. For us goldsmiths, such a tool is definitely a blessing.
In the next step, I took care of the prong settings, in which the rectangular rock crystals would find a safe and permanent home. For this, tiny recesses were milled into the inside of the raised bars, which had to correspond exactly to the external shape of the cut rock crystals. The gemstone will later be "clamped" into these at just four corner points.
Now all four arms of the cross could be soldered to the central setting for the beautiful tourmaline. Before this, the central gemstone setting was also provided with the four raised "claws". You could now slowly begin to see where the journey was going. 😉
Now all that was missing was the back. To do this, the outline of the cross pendant was sawn out of a 1 mm thick silver sheet, cleaned up and then soldered to the cross. The gemstone settings above are open at the sides so that enough light can always fall into the gemstones from below, thus increasing their brilliance even further.
Now, of course, my cross pendant had to be given the delicate enamel colors that are so typical of jewelry from this era. To do this, tiny amounts of the colored enamel powder were applied to the milled cavities with a fine brush and melted in an enameling furnace at over 800 degrees while lying on a metal grid. I was already very happy with the result and the patina. However, the freshly fired enamel still had to be removed a little from the edges of the cavities with fine diamond files in order to get as close as possible to the historical models.
Finally, after the gold plating, the pearls were attached to the sides, all the gemstones were set and the small, delicate pearl bells were hung, which make the cross pendant appear so delicate. Then the moment finally arrived: for the first time, I was able to hold my cross pendant in all its glory in my hands. Although I have been working in this profession for quite a while now, it still moves me when I am finally able to bring such an object to life.
Interesting facts about enamel:
Enamel has been a staple in jewelry making for centuries and is valued for its variety of colors, durability, and ability to create artistic designs. Enamel is created by fusing a glass powder onto a metal base at high temperatures, creating a smooth, shiny, and colorful layer.
Jewelry decorated with enamel has a special appeal and is often a unique work of art that requires a great deal of craftsmanship. The following describes the use of enamel in jewelry making, its history, techniques and care.
History of Enamel in Jewelry Making
The art of enamel production dates back to ancient times. Techniques for coating metallic surfaces with colorful glazes were developed in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. Enamel was also frequently used in Byzantine art to decorate religious objects and jewelry. The technique came to Europe in the Middle Ages, where it became particularly popular in France and Italy. During the Renaissance and Baroque periods, enameling techniques flourished. Cloisonné (cell enamel) was particularly popular; this technique involves forming thin metal strips into cells that are then filled with colored enamel.
In the 19th century, enamel became popular again, especially through the works of jewelers such as Carl Fabergé, who became famous for his detailed and colorful enamel work. Enamel is still used in modern jewelry making, both in traditional craftsmanship and in innovative, contemporary designs.
techniques of enamel jewelry making
There are several techniques used to create enamel jewelry, each with its own aesthetic characteristics and challenges:
1. Cloisonné (Zellenemaille): Beim Cloisonné wird feiner Metalldraht oder Metallstreifen auf das Grundmetall gelötet, um kleine Zellen zu bilden, die dann mit farbigem Emaille gefüllt werden. Diese Technik ermöglicht es, detaillierte Muster und Motive zu schaffen, und wird oft in kunstvollen und farbenfrohen Designs verwendet.
2. Champlevé (Grubenschmelz): Beim Champlevé-Verfahren werden Vertiefungen oder „Gruben“ in das Metall geätzt oder gemeißelt, die dann mit Emaille gefüllt und bei hoher Temperatur geschmolzen werden. Nach dem Brennen wird die Oberfläche poliert, sodass das Emaille in die Vertiefungen eingebettet ist und eine glatte Oberfläche entsteht.
3. Plique-à-jour (Fensteremaille): Diese aufwendige Technik ähnelt einem bunten Glasfenster, da das Emaille ohne Rückseite aufgebracht wird. Dabei wird das Emaillepulver in offene Zellen gefüllt und bei hohen Temperaturen geschmolzen, sodass das Licht durchscheinen kann. Diese Technik ist besonders schwierig, da das Emaille ohne Rückhalt aufgetragen wird und sehr zerbrechlich ist.
4. Basse-taille: Hierbei wird eine Metalloberfläche vor dem Auftragen der Emaille eingraviert oder in unterschiedlicher Tiefe verziert. Das Emaille wird darüber aufgetragen, sodass das Muster durch die transparente oder halbtransparente Emaille hindurch sichtbar bleibt. Diese Technik erzeugt faszinierende Lichtreflexionen und eine außergewöhnliche Tiefe im Design.
5. Guilloché: Guilloché ist eine Technik, bei der mechanische Muster in das Metall graviert werden, bevor eine Schicht aus transparentem oder halbtransparentem Emaille aufgetragen wird. Die Lichtbrechung durch die Muster im Metall erzeugt einen optischen Effekt, der Tiefe und Brillanz verleiht. Diese Technik wurde vor allem von Fabergé populär gemacht.
Use and Style of Enamel in Jewelry Design
Enamel gives jewelry an extraordinary color that is often difficult to achieve with precious metals and gemstones alone. It is used both as the main component of a design and as an accent. Enamel can be found in rings, pendants, bracelets, earrings and even watch faces. Because it can be made in almost any color, it is particularly versatile.
In modern jewelry making, enamel is often used in combination with precious metals such as gold and silver, but also in combination with gemstones to create designs that combine luxury and color. Many contemporary designers use enamel to create minimalist and geometric patterns in a modern style, or to reinterpret traditional designs. Thanks to new techniques and materials, it is now also possible to use bright and particularly durable enamel colors.
Care and preservation of enamel jewelry
Enamel is relatively resistant to wear and discoloration, but it should still be handled with care. Because it is a layer of glass, enamel can break or crack if subjected to strong impacts or sudden changes in temperature. Therefore, jewelry with enamel should be removed before sporting activities, housework or other work that could damage it.
To clean the jewelry, it is usually sufficient to wipe it with a soft, damp cloth. Aggressive cleaning agents or chemical cleaning should be avoided as they could attack the enamel surface. Very hot water baths can also affect the structure of the enamel. Jewelry with valuable materials or complex enamel techniques should ideally be professionally cleaned and regularly checked for damage.
Conclusion
Enamel is a fascinating material that gives jewelry a unique depth of color and individuality. From the traditional techniques of cloisonné and champlevé to modern, minimalist designs, enamel offers a variety of design possibilities. Jewelry designers and artisans value enamel because they can implement both classic and modern designs and work with intense, long-lasting colors. Despite the high demands placed on making enamel jewelry, it remains one of the most popular techniques for adding an artistic and elegant touch to jewelry. With proper care, jewelry with enamel can retain its brilliance for many years and bring joy to its wearers.
Interesting facts about rock crystal:
Rock crystal is one of the most fascinating and versatile gemstones, having been used in jewelry making for centuries. Its often crystal-clear appearance, symbolic meaning, and physical properties make it a popular material for jewelry designers and wearers alike. Rock crystal belongs to the quartz family and is chemically pure silicon dioxide. Unlike many other gemstones, it is colorless and transparent, giving it a timeless and universal elegance.
Origin and Properties of Rock Crystal
Rock crystal is mined in various regions around the world, including Brazil, the USA, Russia and also the Alpine regions of Europe. The crystals form in rock cavities and grow over thousands of years. Due to its pure white, clear structure, rock crystal is often associated with light and purity. Many specimens have an exceptional clarity that makes them appear almost like cut glass, which is why rock crystal is often referred to as "rock crystal".
On the Mohs hardness scale, rock crystal has a hardness of 7, which makes it relatively resistant to scratches. This property, combined with its chemical stability, makes it ideal for jewelry making, as rock crystal is durable and easy to work with. The noble, clear crystals can be cut and polished into various shapes to highlight their natural beauty.
history and cultural significance
Rock crystal has played a role in various cultures and traditions for thousands of years. In ancient times it was valued for its special purity and served as jewelry and ritual object. In Egypt, Greece and Rome it was believed that rock crystal had magical powers and represented a connection to the divine world. In many cultures it was also used as a protective stone to ward off negative energies and promote positive energies.
In medieval alchemy, rock crystal was considered a symbol of clarity and purity of spirit. It was often worn in amulets to protect the wearer and to give them wisdom. To this day, rock crystal is considered a healing stone in esotericism and alternative medicine, and is said to purify and harmonize body and mind.
Processing of rock crystal in jewelry production
Due to its transparent appearance and neutral color, rock crystal is very versatile in the world of jewelry. It can be used both as a main stone and as a complementary accent stone in a variety of jewelry pieces.
1. Schliffe und Designs: Bergkristall lässt sich in zahlreichen Schliffarten verarbeiten, wie dem facettierten Brillantschliff, dem Cabochonschliff oder auch in organischen, unbearbeiteten Formen, die dem Schmuckstück einen natürlichen Charakter verleihen. Facettierte Bergkristalle reflektieren das Licht in einzigartiger Weise und verleihen Ringen, Anhängern oder Ohrringen eine funkelnde Eleganz. Unbearbeitete oder rohbelassene Kristalle sind besonders beliebt in modernen und minimalistischen Designs und sprechen Menschen an, die einen natürlichen und „boho-inspirierten“ Stil bevorzugen.
2. Metallkombinationen: Bergkristall harmoniert gut mit verschiedenen Edelmetallen, insbesondere mit Silber und Weißgold. Das kühle Weiß dieser Metalle betont die Reinheit und Klarheit des Bergkristalls. Auch in Kombination mit Gold entsteht ein edler Kontrast, der den Kristall als Highlight hervorhebt. In jüngster Zeit wird Bergkristall auch in Roségold gefasst, was ihm eine warme, romantische Note verleiht und besonders bei modernen Designern beliebt ist.
3. Einsatz als Haupt- und Nebenstein: Bergkristall kann sowohl als Hauptstein in einem Schmuckstück als auch als Nebenstein verwendet werden. In Ringen und Anhängern ist er oft der zentrale Stein, während er in Colliers und Armbändern in Kombination mit anderen farbigen Edelsteinen wie Amethyst, Citrin oder Turmalin eingesetzt wird. Diese Kombinationen schaffen farbenfrohe und interessante Kontraste und geben dem Schmuck eine zusätzliche visuelle Tiefe.
Rock crystal in modern jewelry design
In recent years, rock crystal has experienced a renaissance in jewelry design, especially in the modern and minimalist jewelry scene. Its transparent and understated elegance fits well with trends that focus on natural beauty and simplicity. Jewelry designers often use rock crystal in geometric shapes, such as clear circles, triangles or hexagons, which underlines the modern, clean look.
In addition, rock crystal is often used in what is known as "spiritual" or "healing" jewelry. Many people believe that rock crystal can amplify positive energies and have a calming effect on the mind, so it is often found in meditation necklaces, mala bracelets, and other spiritual accessories. The clarity and neutrality of rock crystal also makes it ideal for this purpose, as it is visually unobtrusive and complements personal style without dominating.
Care and Cleaning of Rock Crystal Jewelry
Another advantage of rock crystal is that it is easy to care for. Because it is relatively hard, it is less susceptible to scratches and wear than softer gemstones. To clean, warm water with a mild detergent is enough to remove dirt and debris. However, you should avoid exposing the stone to high temperatures or chemical cleaners, as this could affect its shine.
In summary, rock crystal is a timeless classic in jewelry making. Its simple but striking appearance makes it a popular choice for a wide variety of designs and styles. Whether as a minimalist accessory or as the central component of an eye-catching piece of jewelry, rock crystal gives every piece of jewelry a special touch of clarity and elegance.