In the summer of 2020 we got in our goldsmith's studio a very unusual visit: The managing director of a medium-sized company and his wife even put up with a longer journey by car to see the replica of an originallate roman ring with layered agate from the end of the 3rd century.
Our customers had recently come into possession of this extraordinary antique gold ring through the art trade. However, since the ring is rather rare in this opulence and our customer liked the ring so much that she wanted to wear it on her own finger - but interfering with the historical substance was out of the question - both accepted our suggestion without further ado:
Instead, a true-to-the-original replica of the historic ring was to be made in a modern ring size that would fit our customer. In doing so, the defects in the original, which tend to hinder comfortable wearing, such as a broken ring band and a gemstone that is probably crooked due to a bump, should be corrected if possible. Otherwise, the attention to detail and the final patination should come as close as possible to the antique original.
Of course, we were very happy about this unusual order. It is rare to see such an elaborate and valuable original up close. So I was able to apply all my technical experience of historical goldsmith techniques and, for example, to the uncompromising patination. One feels strangely close and connected to the antique master goldsmiths. Wonderful.
The almost 1700-year-old original ring is made of almost 950/- yellow gold and has a particularly elaborate ring band made of corded and snake-shaped gold wires. In addition, the center of the ring is adorned with a ring set with leaf ornaments (?) and probably rarer and more typical of the time in its color distribution Layered Agate.
Inquiries with art historians from a state museum who specialize in Roman antiquity revealed that the ring could probably have come directly from the center of the then Roman Empire, if not from Rome itself the highest social circles.
Interestingly, we also found out that because of its tiny ring width, such a ring was perhaps not worn very low down on the finger in the way that is common today, but rather on or just behind the first finger joint – i.e. directly behind the fingertip.
Our special focus was initially on procuring a layered agate that was as similar as possible. Unfortunately, our efforts with several large suppliers in the gemstone town of Idar-Oberstein, with our gemstone cutter, on the worldwide Internet and with various other sources were unsuccessful. Apparently, the exact order, width and color of the natural agate layers lying on top of each other was too rare for a suitable mineral to be found on the market within an acceptable period of time.
After consultation with our two customers, we finally decided to commission a so-called layered agate "Triplets“ to our gemstone cutter. The result of his efforts left nothing to be desired:
Now it was time to melt the authentic gold alloy. Approx. 95% fine gold was alloyed with approx. 5% fine silver, ie bonded together by intense heating under a gas burner.
At around 1100 degrees, both metals finally melted into an alloy that corresponds to the ancient original. It's pretty martial: 😉
The starting precious metal obtained in this way could then be formed into the desired ring ornaments of the ring band and the gemstone setting for the layered agate. For this purpose, for example, a wide variety of wires were rolled out for the production of the ring band and then partially knotted together, i.e. twisted into each other:
Beforehand, the ring band was first made in fine silver as a test in order to determine the individual processing steps and the exact material thicknesses and to test their possible resilience in advance through the later soldering and stretching.
For example, the beaded wire was formed using a modern CD. However, it was probably different with the ancient Romans. 😉
Now all the individual gold ornaments of the ring band could be soldered together.
Finally, the ring band and the ring head including the gemstone setting were connected and the beautiful layered agate could be set. After that, all components were painstakingly patinated again, ie the surface of the ring was matched to the antique original with regard to the signs of wear.
The enthusiasm of our two customers was written all over their faces. Apparently we were able to fully meet the expectations and therefore, after the ring was handed over, here in our studio we were full of inspiration and very happy about this rewarding and exciting order.
Interesting facts about Lagenagat
Layered agate is a fascinating gemstone that is characterized by its characteristic layers. These are created by natural deposits of quartz in various colors and give the stone its unmistakable appearance. Depending on the location and history of its formation, the color palette of layered agate varies from delicate white and gray tones to strong brown and red to vibrant blue or green tones. The layers of the agate can be clearly separated from one another or blend harmoniously into one another, which makes each stone unique.
The name "agate" is derived from the river Achates (now Dirillo) in Sicily, where the stone was discovered in ancient times. Layered agate is a special variety of agate that is valued for its layered structure. This property makes it particularly popular for use in jewelry making and decorative art objects. Even in ancient times and the Middle Ages, layered agate was used to make filigree cameos and gems, as the layers have different colors and can therefore be used to create artistic reliefs and contrasts.
The formation of layered agate is a geological masterpiece that takes place over thousands of years. The stone forms in volcanic rock cavities in which silica-rich solutions are deposited. These solutions crystallize layer by layer, creating the characteristic color and structure patterns. The different colors result from the presence of trace elements such as iron, manganese or chromium during the formation of the stone. This lengthy process not only gives layered agate its extraordinary appearance, but also makes it a symbol of patience and perseverance.
In addition to its visual appeal, layered agate is also said to have a number of spiritual and healing properties. In esotericism, the stone is considered a protective and harmonious stone that is said to promote inner stability and balance. Because of its layers, it is often interpreted as a symbol of layers of personality or life path. Many people believe that layered agate can help to find clarity in difficult situations and to release emotional blockages. In addition, it is said to have a calming effect on the mind and help to reduce stress and anxiety.
Layered agate has been popular in jewelry making since ancient times because it is easy to work with and its layers offer new design options. The stone is often used in pendants, earrings, rings and bracelets. The unique patterns of layered agate are particularly evident when combined with precious metals such as silver or gold. Thanks to its hardness and durability, it is not only visually appealing but also durable.
Layered agate is also valued in art and decoration. Whether as a polished disc, artistically engraved relief or in its natural form - it attracts attention and gives every room a special touch. Collectors and lovers of minerals value the stone for its versatility and the possibility of finding unique specimens with a wide variety of color gradients and patterns.
Overall, layered agate is a stone that fascinates with its beauty, its geological history and its symbolic meaning. It combines aesthetics, craftsmanship and spiritual depth, making it a sought-after material in both the jewelry and art worlds. Anyone who chooses layered agate not only carries a piece of nature with them, but also a symbol of patience, strength and the uniqueness of every life.